![]() This place oozes power - get on board, or get run over. The cathedral's imposing exterior and the stunning interior drive home the message of the Catholic (read: "universal") Church in a way that would have stuck with any medieval worshipper. Don't leave sans making the short drive into the village and up to the belvedere for a smashing panorama over the castles. But three of the four castles still have their towers intact. The village welcomed Cathars (becoming a bishop's seat at one point) but paid dearly for this tolerance with destruction by French troops in 1227. The castles, which once surrounded a fortified village, date from the 11th century. Ten scenic miles north of Carcassonne, these four ruined castles cap a rugged hilltop and give visitors a handy look at the region's Cathar castles. You'll also see full-size models of Cro-Magnon people and animals that stare at racks of arrowheads Châteaux of Lastours Worthwhile videos demonstrate scratched designs, painting techniques, and how spearheads were made. Some of the most interesting objects on display include a handheld arrow launcher, a 5,000-year-old flat-bottomed boat made from oak, prehistoric fire pits, amazing cavewoman jewelry, and beautiful rock sculptures of horses. This well-presented museum takes you through prehistory - starting 400,000 years ago - and is good preparation for cave visits. Grotte du Pech Merle is easy to book ahead and has good English descriptions but requires a considerable detour, unless you're heading to or from the south. Abri du Cap Blanc is bookable in advance, but it only has carvings, not paintings. If you don't score an entry there, the best alternative is Rouffignac (no reservations available, but you can generally show up and get in without too long a wait - call ahead to see how busy they are). If seeing the very best matters, plan way ahead and book a local guide or transport service to the best cave: Grotte de Font-de-Gaume. ![]() Procrastinators who arrive in the Dordogne without any reservations can show up and take their chances. But several caves are easier to plan for and visit, and well worth a traveler's time, provided you come prepared. ![]() Some caves (like Lascaux IV) require long visits. The most famous cave with original art, Font-de-Gaume, is so restricted that getting in is nigh impossible. Delicate caves come with strict restrictions on visitors, and many of them are in out-of-the way locations - making it time-consuming to fit a cave visit into your vacation (allow three hours for a typical visit, including transit time from Sarlat). While the cave art in this region is amazing, it can be a headache to strategize. Come for a memorable dinner of classic French cuisine with modern accents in a romantic setting (book a few days ahead). Régis is third generation of his family to be chef here, and he takes his job seriously. You can meet the goslings, do a little unforced feeding, and hear how every part of the goose (except heads and feet) is used - even feathers (for pillows). Each evening, his wife Nathalie leads a one-hour, kid-friendly tour. Denis Mazet (the latest in a long line of goose farmers here) spends five hours a day feeding his gaggle of geese. This big, homey goose farm a short drive from Sarlat is run by a couple who enjoy their work. This place is a dream for kids of any age who hold fond tree-house memories. These five fascinating terraces carved by the Vézère River are simple to visit: Climb through the one-way circuit, where panels show the medieval buildings that once filled this space. As you tour the castle, swords, spears, and crossbows keep you honest, and the two stone WCs keep kids entertained. DETOURS PYRENEENS FREEChâteau de Beynacīeynac's authentic, sparsely furnished castle is best for its valley views, but it still manages to evoke a memorable medieval feel, and you're free to wander it on your own. I like Périgord-Aventure et Loisirs for its pullout arrangement in Beynac, but canoe companies line the riverbanks - each one works best for a particular stretch of river. You'll get a life vest and, for a little extra, a watertight bucket in which to store your belongings. They all charge about the same and most accept cash only. ![]() All companies let you put in anytime between 9:30 and 16:00 (start no later than 15:00 to allow time to linger when the mood strikes they'll pick you up at about 18:00). Some rental places will pick you up at an agreed-upon spot (even in Sarlat, if they aren't too busy). Whether a one-person kayak or a two-person canoe, they're stable enough for beginners, and the only whitewater you'll encounter will be the rare wake of passing tour boats…and your travel partner frothing at the views. ![]() You can rent plastic boats - hard, light, and indestructible - from many area outfits. ![]()
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